For some years now, trash compactors have been a convenient way to compress and dispose of household trash. Homeowners who frequently throw away large items (diaper boxes, for example) may find trash compactors useful in reducing their trash volume.

This appliance was present much more often in older homes. Inspection of this appliance is pretty basic and a function test at best. Inspectors cannot measure the Rams or force of a trash compactor. All we can do is a noise and vibration test.

A trash compactor consists of a housing which encloses a drawer used for the collection of compacted trash. The modern trash compactor has been designed for more problem-free operation than the older models. This does not mean that they will never break down but that the models have been improved. One of the problems often encountered is that the drawer sometimes sticks when it is withdrawn from the housing. This problem is usually connected to an obstruction in the rollers that the drawer slides on. Clearing the obstruction will often fix the problem.

Many homeowners are taking out the old equipment and replacing it with more useable and friendly space-saving ideas. If you are already going green and seperating/recycling, why not turn it into a usuable space for a slide-out trash can or mini-fridge? Searching the web will lead to many DIY websites with deatiled instructions on how to tacklet this project. Many home improvement stores sell wine fridges that are made with the dimensions to replace a trash compactor.

Weep screed or weep skreed drains are metal devices installed at the foundation line of exterior plaster or stucco walls. The screeds are intended as an exit for moisture/water that can seep into a structure near the roof, vent pipes, chimney structure, windows/doors and other locations. Weep screeds allow for the continual downward passage of moisture/water to exit at the base of the wall and drain away.

Sometimes  plaster/stucco is applied all the way down to the grade to create an aesthetically pleasing look. However because it's porous, this also provides a path for water intrusion. Stucco that terminates at grade prevents water from draining out from behind the stucco coating and can trap water at the base of the foundation. In addition, water in the soil can wick back up into the stucco.

Minor cracking is not likely to contribute to water intrusion.  However, large cracks may allow water to reach
the back plane of plaster. A properly installed weep skreed will direct this moisture to the bottom of the wall and allow it to exit properly.

The installation of any type of stone, tile and brick pavers against the base of a wall at an elevation higher than the weep screed can prevent the screed from draining properly. It is important to make sure the skreed holes are not obstructed by plaster, stucco or caulk in order to drain. Care should also be taken to ensure that weep screeds are not covered by landscaping or concrete walkways.

The proper installation and care ensures that your stucco/plaster walls do not develop problems and will perform properly.

 

 

A hole in the drywall is usually considered cosmetic. Some inspectors will make a note about it for FYI but it does not affect the structural integrity of a home. The exception to that is if it is allowing moisture or insects to cause further damage to the interior or exterior.

But it can also be an indication of how well a home is maintaned. A random hole that has been untouched can be suspect for further typical preventive measures not performed by the homeowner and can certainly be a negative for a potential homebuyer.

If it is in a lower area (below your knees) in a room adjoining a bathroom, it can also be a treatment "trap" hole left by a Pest Control Company. It is used to inject chemicals into an area needing treatment. Usually it is covered by a vent, not left uncovered.

When in doubt, better to be repaired than left as is. It shows pride in ownership to a potential buyer when considering your house for purchase.

Now that freezing weather is here for a few days, here is a great article for more freeze protection tips from the Institute for Business and Home Safety. IBHS is a national nonprofit initiative of the insurance industry to reduce deaths, injuries, property damage, economic losses and human suffering caused by natural disasters.

"Homeowners in the South need to be alert to the danger of freezing and bursting water pipes when the outdoor temperature threatens to drop to 20° F. That's the temperature at which ice is likely to start forming in water pipes located in an unheated portion of a house. Once ice forms into a blockage in a pipe, continued growth of ice in the pipe can lead to excessive water pressure. It's pressure of the water that has no place to go when ice builds that causes the pipe to burst, rather than ice pushing against the wall of a pipe. Although 20°F is well below the freezing temperature of water, two factors make this the critical outdoor temperature:

1. The temperature of an unheated portion of a house is almost always at least a few degrees above the outdoor temperature. For example, an insulated attic may be at 37 or 38° F when the outdoor temperature is 32° F.

2. Water "supercools" several degrees below freezing before any ice begins to form. In research tests at the University of Illinois, water pipes placed in an unheated, insulated attic consistently started forming ice when the outdoor temperature dipped just below 20°F.

The 20° F threshold is primarily for homes in the South and other areas where freezing may occur only a handful of times each season. There are several precautions homeowners in the South can take when the temperature is expected to dip into the low 20s:

• Seal all openings where cold air can get at unprotected water pipes. It's especially important to keep cold wind away from pipes, which speeds up the freezing process.
  
  
• Leave cabinet doors open under the kitchen and bathroom sinks to allow warmer room air to circulate around pipes.
  
  
• Let faucets drip slowly to keep water flowing through pipes that are vulnerable to freezing. Ice might still form in the pipes, but an open faucet allows water to escape before the pressure builds to where a pipe can burst. If the dripping stops, it may mean that ice is blocking the pipe; keep the faucet open, since the pipe still needs pressure relief.
  
  
• Pipes in attics and crawl spaces should be protected with insulation or heat. Pipe insulation is available in fiberglass or foam sleeves. Home centers and hardware stores have sleeves providing 1/8 to 5/8 inches of insulation; specialty dealers have products that provide up to 2 inches of insulation. The extra thickness is worth the price and can save a pipe that would freeze with less insulation.
  
  
• Heating cables and tapes are effective in freeze protection. Select a heating cable with the UL label and a built-in thermostat that turns the heat on when needed (without a thermostat, the cable has to be plugged in each time and might be forgotten). Follow the manufacturer's instructions closely.
  
  
• Exterior pipes should be drained or enclosed in 2" fiberglass insulation sleeves.
  
  
• Pipes leading to the exterior should be shut off and drained at the start of the winter. If these exterior faucets do not have a shut-off valve inside the house, have one installed by a plumber. "

How often do you think of the maintenance required to keep your home systems and appliances up and running? If you are busy like most homeowners, probably not often enough.  Here are a few tips to keep things running smoothly.

Roof:  Clean all debris out of the gutters .  Check for missing or damaged shingles.  Cut all tree limbs away or back from the roof to prevent damage.

Structure:   Check to make sure there are no areas around the foundation that are holding or “ponding” water. Make sure downspouts extend out of flowerbeds and away from the foundation.  Are there any exterior cracks or siding damage that need attention?

Air Conditioning System maintenance: To ensure efficient operation, check filters monthly.   Remove debris from overflow pans and around outside condensers.

Heating System maintenance: Visually inspect exhaust vent for rust, damage or deterioration.

Electrical System maintenance: To help prevent power outages, make sure there are not too many appliances plugged into one circuit.

Smoke Detectors:  Check and test quarterly.  Replace all batteries and backup batteries yearly.

Fireplaces:   Have the flu and inserts cleaned to prevent creosote build-up if used often.  Make sure the chimney cap is secured w/o holes.

Plumbing System maintenance: Check for leaks under cabinets and “running” toilets. Toilet paper should be the only paper product flushed down a toilet.  Clean all faucet aerators.  Address any sluggish drains and clean out any clogs.

Washer maintenance: Make sure your machine is level to prevent uneven wearing of parts. To adjust, turn the legs clockwise to lower them or counter-clockwise to raise them. 

Dryer maintenance: Clean the lint screen after each load and clean out the inside dryer vents and outside dryer caps. 

Water Heater maintenance: Drain and flush sediment from the tank twice a year.

Range/Oven maintenance: If you have a self-clean oven, run it twice yearly or more frequently if needed.

Refrigerator maintenance: Clean the interior shelves, shell and gaskets every three months.

Garbage Disposal maintenance: To clean, feed a full tray of ice cubes through it while running cold water.  You can also add lemon/lime slices or baking soda to help with odors.

These are just a few suggestions offered for your home systems and appliances.  If you do not feel comfortable in safely and properly attempting any that may apply to your systems or appliances, just call a qualified professional.   Proper maintenance goes a long way in extending the life of your systems and major expenses down the road.

We have been doing a lot of inspections lately that feature homes that have "vessel" or bowl type sinks. These sinks are quite popular these days, not to mention cool to look at.

The only caution about "vessel" type sinks is that they have no overflow, so be careful when filling them up. They are not compatible with distractions of any kind! It is a good idea to never fill one up while you are on the phone, texting, changing the baby’s diaper or letting small children use them without proper supervision.

Many learn the hard way about the lack of an overflow, including inspectors!

Hope everyone has been enjoying the Holiday Season. We have been busy this week with those taking advantage of the low interest rates.

" Here's wishing you more happiness than all the words can tell.

Not just alone for New Years Eve,

But for all the year as well!"

Let's make the most of the New Year & may it be your best year yet. Happy New Year & Best Wishes from the Runnels Family & Excel Inspections! Hope to see you all next year!

With temperatures beginning to drop, its a good time to make sure all of your pipes are protected.

Freeze protection for plumbing pipes should be installed in areas where the air is not heated, such as crawlspaces, garages, workshops and sheds. This will prevent them from bursting during an overnight freeze when temperatures drop.

Exterior hose bibs should be covered and insulated. Any home improvement store will carry products made specifically for this purpose. All garden hoses should be disconnected from the hose bib and drained.

Outside water well tanks that are not in a well house should be covered and insulated, along with pipes. Fire-rated heat lamps or lights can also help keep pipes from freezing.

Swimming pool and spas/hot tubs should also be included in your freeze protection checklist.

For interior pipes, turn on your faucets to allow the water to trickle/drip into the sink. Opening cabinet doors inside can help expose the pipes to warmer air. The slow flow of water will prevent the liquid from freezing within the pipes.Taking care of small problems now prevents bigger problems later. Be proactive on your winter home maintenance.

This month we are focusing on seasonal safety tips and posting one each day on our Excel Facebook and  twitter pages:  https://twitter.com/#!/excelinspects

When purchasing an artificial tree, look for the label "Fire Resistant."
If purchasing a live tree, check for freshness. In setting up a tree at home, place it away from fireplaces, radiators or portable heaters. Place the tree out of the way of traffic and do not block doorways.

Use caution with holiday decorations and whenever possible, choose those made with flame-resistant, flame-retardant or non-combustible materials. Keep candles away from decorations and other combustible materials, and do not use candles to decorate Christmas trees.

Carefully inspect new and previously used light strings and replace damaged items before plugging lights in. Do not overload extension cords.

Before using lights outdoors, check labels to be sure they have been certified for outdoor use. Plug all outdoor electric decorations into circuits with ground fault circuit interrupters to avoid potential shocks.

Don't mount Christmas lights in any way that can damage the cord's wire insulation (i.e., using clips, not nails). Lots of fires start that way!

Turn off all Christmas lights when you go to bed or leave the house. The lights could short out and start a fire.

Keep children and pets away from light strings and electrical decorations. Turn off all light strings and decorations before leaving the house or going to bed.

Keep all matches & lighters out of sight and reach of small children. Test all smoke alarms regularly, & let guests know what your fire escape plan is.

Unattended cooking is the leading cause of home fires in the U.S. When cooking for holiday visitors, remember to keep an eye more on the range than the calories!

House full of Holiday guests? If you have smokers, provide plenty of ashtrays and check them frequently. Cigarette butts can smolder in the trash and cause a fire, so completely douse cigarette butts with water before discarding.

Happy Holidays and stay safe!